Bypass the Grand Duchy?

On the eve of Britains controversial exit from Europe I find myself writing this blog from the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.

When I told people where I was going, their response was resoundingly negative. “Why?” uttered friends and family. Well as readers of this site will know I’m a self confessed country (or in this case sovereign state) bagger. The allure of a ridulously cheap flight – the same as an off peak return train ticket between Glasgow and Edinburgh –  and the reality of having two small children putting any grand travel plans on hold for a few years, I thought why the hell not.

I have to admit there was also a sense of needing to see for myself the institutions whose very existence and values have caused such debate, anger and despair over the last few years in the UK. Yes, I’m talking about Brexit.

Full disclosure. I am a remainer, like the majority of my fellow country men and women in Scotland. I believe in the intrinsic value of being part of a collective, one that promotes peace; offers freedom, security and justice; enhances economic and social cohesion and solidarity; respects diversity; and promotes democracy. I am also a social science graduate so part of this trip was about dusting off the brain cells too.

Luxembourg is one of the founding members of the EU, having abandoned its neutrality after renewed occupation in the Second World War in favour of international cooperation. And the Kirchberg district of Luxembourg City is where you will find many of its institutions. It is not as bland as it may seem. Fans of modern architecture may appreciate the skyline as you make your way over the Pont Grande Duchesse Charlotte to visit the Mudam (modern art gallery), the Philharmonic Concert Hall and the Court of European Justice alongside various sculptures dotted about the area.

Aside from being at the epicentre of Europe and renowned for being a tax haven, what else does it have going for it? I won’t lie, there isn’t masses to do but the absence of a huge list of sights to tick off, facilitated my desire to reset mentally and physically. A necessity for anyone, but especially a mum of a five months old baby and six year old.

The city itself is remarkably small which means it is so easy to get about either on foot or via public transport, which is completely free from March 2020 – one of the many pieces of social legislation brought in by the government to tackle the increasing gap between rich and poor, as well as tackling climate change.

To illustrate how small and accessible the main sights in the city are, let’s say they can be squared off in a 5-7 kilometres loop. A loop which I decided to run. Seemed like a good idea at the time, until the blizzard started around 2 kilometres in but I didn’t let that deter me, nor the stares of bewilderment from the locals!  Beware Luxembourg City is a little like Edinburgh in that it is built on different levels which I only realised whilst out on my runs which resulted in a few unexpected kilometres.

My running loop took in Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Casemates, Hotel de Ville, Casino Luxembourg (now an art gallery), Parc Edmond J Klein, Pont Grand-Duchess Charlotte, the Pfaffenthal Panoramic elevator, the Grand Ducal Palace, the Museum of History and Art, and the Grund Area (the historic district in the lower level of the city) and Bock (a scenic look out point).  The latter was a run in itself.

I’m not usually one for a museum but the Museum of History and Art was actually very informative, and helped me gain a clearer sense of the city and country’s past.  Its exhibition on universal suffrage also seemed very poignant.

Likewise, there was something endearing about being able to walk right up to the guards outside the Grand Ducal Palace and feel that you could probably knock on the door without being rugby tackled by a member of the security service.

With the weather being pretty horrendous, it seemed only polite to search out a few nice cafes and bars in which to chill for an hour or so with my book.  I expected places to be quite stuffy but I did manage to find a couple of gems – Konrad Cafe and Bar and Ready?! I ate in both spots too albeit they were light bites but no complaints taste wise and both were reasonably priced.  Likewise, A La Soupe was a good lunchtime pitstop which seemingly caters to the local office workers, followed by a sweet treat from Oberweis (one of the fanciest bakeries I have ever set foot in). Honestly their flagship store on Grand Rue was more akin to a luxury designer clothes store.

A few people including travel blogs recommend the Golden Bean for coffee. Personally I thought it was dreadful – a bland, uniform place serving equally bland coffee.  Ready?! on the other hand was lovely hence the double visit, despite being a little out of the way.

I can’t honestly say that the city stood out food wise which I found a little surprising given its French, German and Belgian neighbours. But maybe you have to spend mega bucks which I simply wasn’t prepared to do. I did, however, enjoy a nice steak at D’Artagnan on the recommendation of my Airbnb host. This restaurant is famous for serving horse meat (cheval) which isn’t really my ‘thing’ so I opted for the entrecôte instead.

Would I recommend a visit to the Grand Duchy? Well, for me, I was looking for a couple of nights away to put myself first and to recharge my batteries. I certainly returned home feeling rested but most importantly grateful for my wonderful family and the place we call home.

There was also, however, part of me that was sad to reflect on Britain’s impending departure from Europe and all that it represents. I am fearful of the kind of country my daughters will now grow up in, and the message Britain’s departure from Europe sends to the rest of the world in terms of her approach to freedom, peace, diversity and cohesion. Only time will tell.