I have heard some describe Singapore as dull. In fact I am pretty sure that Time Out voted it one of the world’s least exciting cities. Singapore Tourism Board was rightly cheesed off and I have to admit that I would be too. This bustling metropolis, with its gleaming skyscrapers with beautifully landscaped gardens protruding from them, coupled with the cultural mish-mash of nationalities and its very friendly locals, surpassed all of our expectations.
Nowhere did the cultural diversity of Singapore hit us most profoundly than whilst watching our daughter play in one of the amazing play parks found in the endless malls across the city. In this instance City Square Mall in Little India to check out its outdoor playgrounds – a reward for our daughter after being dragged round the temples and streets of Little India. There must have been around eight different nationalities spinning joyfully on the roundabout absorbed in whatever game they were playing.
This diversity is I think why we enjoyed Singapore so much. It is the perfect introduction to Asia, and whilst we have been fortunate to travel quite a bit in Asia (to China, Thailand, Vietnam and Malaysia), Singapore represented a little cosmonaut of them all but in a less frantic environment; perfect when you have a four-year old in tow.
I would have no hesitation in recommending Singapore to families. This was our last ‘big’ holiday before our daughter starts school and we are confined to paying ridiculously overpriced flights with budget airlines in a quest to escape the monotony of home and search out some sunshine.
So let’s start with what there is to do with kids…
Bear in mind that our daughter is four years old so we opted to stay a little longer in Singapore than what people usually recommend (5 night as opposed to 2/3). I am so glad we adopted this approach as everything takes a little longer with a toddler in tow, plus the heat and humidity can be quite over-bearing for everyone coupled with jet-lag which meant we were lucky to leave our apartment before lunch.
And despite the extra time, we opted not to go to Sentosa and the Zoo as we felt there was plenty for us to explore and do in the city itself; from exploring the sights, sounds and smells of Chinatown and Little India, to the must-visit water play parks of Gardens by the Bay and the beautifully serenity of the Botanical Gardens. Plus our daughter doesn’t seem to fussed about zoo’s and aquariums at the moment. Regardless, here are some of her favourite things:
Far East Organisation’s Children’s Gardens at Garden by the Bay has a huge, water play park which was vital to cool down from the 34/35 degree heat (25 degrees higher than what we left behind in Scotland). Our daughter loved this spot, and to be honest, I was tempted to join her in dashing through the water jets to cool down from the heat. In hindsight we should have brought a picnic and based ourselves here for the full morning/afternoon. Worth noting that it is closed on Monday’s and don’t forget to bring a towel and change of clothes. Do not fret as there are plenty of changing facilities available so you won’t have to do that awkward changing behind a towel dance!
The Light and Sound Show which takes place every evening at 7.45 or 8.45 pm at Supertree Grove at the Gardens by the Bay was also a winner. If you’ve been to Hong Kong and seen the light show at the harbour front there, it isn’t dissimilar but it is magical watching the elevated gardens being lit up.
The Botanical Gardens is a stunning outdoor space. The sound of the various birds and insects was almost deafening but it made you forget you were in the middle of a city and was a place of tranquility.
One of the great things about the Gardens, is the huge Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden. Again, it has a water play park, regular play park, maze, growing area, treehouse, cave and lots more. Check out their free Explorers Map and the regular programme of activities for kids. Oh and don’t miss the turtle pond which is nearby.
I should mention that it is worth checking out the blogs on all the best kids playgrounds to be found in Singapore. Most are to be found in shopping malls, whose food courts are also a haven for famished children and offer more variety than your sub-standard food courts found in the UK.
If it is still open, check out Art Zoo World, an interactive art display featuring giant inflatable’s. Basically it is a huge collections of bouncy castles. Young and old will be amused.
Our daughter also enjoyed (well at least I think she did) pointing out the various animals or other strange beasts that adorned the many temples or shrines dotted across Chinatown and Little India (see below). She also enjoyed shopping for kids chopsticks and souvenirs in the streets and lanes of both neighbourhoods, and surprised us by sampling some of the world cuisine on offer. She has become a bit of a chopstick pro.
Worth mentioning that kids up to the age of seven years old can travel for free on the metro and bus. You have to supply proof of age when purchasing a travel ticket. Our daughter loved having her own bespoke travel pass, and swiping in and out of the bus.
Getting around…
On that note, given the soaring heat and humidity in Singapore, I would recommend buying yourself a day ticket or tourist pass covering the metro and bus. We would normally walk most places but the sheer heat and fact that we had a four-year old in tow meant that the buses were an excellent and easy way of transporting ourselves around the city and seeing the sights. They were super cheap too and figuring out what bus to jump on was made all that bit easier by the free phones (with data and calls) provided by our apartment (Louis Kienne Serviced Apartments).
Our palatial apartment was in up and coming Tiong Bahru, just south of Orchard Road. As one of the oldest housing estates in Singapore, it gave us a feel for what real life is like for those living and working in this vibrant city. From the elders practising yoga in Tiong Bahru Park early in the morning to the locals scoffing their favourite dish at one of the local hawker stalls, this was an excellent base in which to explore the city given its excellent transport links. But I suspect you would be fine anywhere in the city as the transport links are so good, and each neighbourhood has its own distinct identity and charms.
What to see and do…
A visit to Marina Bay Sands and Gardens by the Bay is an absolute essential in anyone’s itinerary. To swim in the now famous (noticeably via Instagram) infinity pool at the top of the hotel requires you to pay for a nights stay in the hotel, so we passed on that. The latter (i.e. the Gardens) is stunning and I would like to say a big thank you to all the gamblers who have essentially funded it! Pay to go up onto the OCBC Skyway (the elevated walkway) so you can see gardens in all their splendour. I would recommend visiting late afternoon so you can appreciate the view at dusk and then stay for the light and sound show. If into sculpture, check out the pieces dotted around the Gardens, including Marc Quinn’s Giant Baby.
Despite the throngs of tourists, we enjoyed Chinatown and not just because of the food. Its temples were little pockets of tranquility amongst the chaos. Key sights included: the impressive Buddha Tooth Relic Temple; Thian Hock Keng Mural (which tells the story of Singapore’s Hokkien immigrants); Sri Mariamman Temple (a paradox given it is a Hindu temple); plus Ann Siang Road (which once housed Chinese clans) and its quirky shops/cafes/bars. Remember to try to dress appropriately for the temples but fear not as scarfs are given out to those baring their knees/shoulders.
Walking out of Little India MRT you are immediately hit with the most amazing smells and colours. The colourful flower garlands, buddha ornaments and pictures of Bollywood divas adorn the shops that spill onto the streets drawing you in. Key things to see/do include: the Tekka Hawker Market (see below); Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple; Abdul Gafoor Mosque; Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple; Leong San See Temple; and Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple.
Arab Street (the Muslim quarter as opposed to one street) was a real surprise and treat. Here you will find the heart of Singapore’s Muslim community, evidenced by the impressive Sultan Mosque. The streets (particularly Haji and Baji Lane) are lined with cool, independent shops and bars. If into street art, you’ll find quite a bit adorning the walls in this area too. The remainder of the shops are filled with fabrics (and lots of them) and Persian carpets, plus some brash restauranteurs peddling their menu against the neighbour.
Personally, I was less impressed with Orchard Road and not quite sure why this would be a must-see attraction on any sightseeing agenda, but I am not a massive shopper. I can’t say it was too different to any other high-end shopping streets across the world, but clearly others disagree.
The Colonial Quarter was a bit of a surprise, and I’d recommend spending a morning exploring the sights here, namely Raffles Hotel (closed until May 2018), St Andrew’s Cathedral, the National Gallery, Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall, Old Hill Street Police Station, and Fort Canning Park. We were also fortunate to see the i Light Sustainable Art Festival which had some interactive pieces which were best viewed at night.
If you are a runner and don’t mind the heat (and even if you simply want to walk), there’s a nice route along the river taking in Clarke Quay, Robertson Quay and Boat Quay, which allows you to take in some of the sights. We only visited Clarke Quay during the day but I suspect it comes to life at nightfall and when happy hour kicks in. A bit too commercial looking for us but we weren’t exactly in town to party into the wee small hours.
We toyed with a boat trip to Indonesia and the bus to Malaysia but talked it through with a friend who is now a Singaporean resident, and they advised there wasn’t really much to see.
Fuel for the soul and sightseeing of course…
If you are a foodie, you will LOVE Singapore. Some of the best food we sampled was from the fantastic Hawker Markets, specifically Chinatown Complex where you will find Hawker Chan’s which is now infamous for serving one of the world’s cheapest Michelin star meals – chicken and rice – all for $2.50 (around £1). Go the original Hawker stall, as opposed to the ‘restaurant’ on Smith Street, for an authentic experience. Maxwell Food Centre is another must visit Hawker centre in Chinatown.
Likewise, be sure to check out the colourful and fragrant Tekka Market in Little India. We sampled a chicken biryani, dosa, chicken tikka, daal and garlic naan from several stall holders (we hit up Allauddin’s Briyani plus the Al-Madina Food Corner) washed down with a mango lassi – all of which were delicious and cost us around £6-8 in total. And everyone was super friendly too, explaining what was what and making recommendations without being too obtrusive.
For breakfast, do what the locals do and ditch the Flat White. Instead grab a Kopi (local coffee typically served with evaporated milk and sugar) and kaya toast (a coconut jam toasty), typically served with soft-boiled eggs which the locals tend to season with soy sauce. Honestly, it melts in your mouth and is a taste sensation. You can sample this from a Hawker stalls or there’s a great chain called Toast Box where you can ask for the ‘traditional toast’. It is worth watching them prepare your morning feast. I was mesmerised by the pouring of the coffee.
And don’t dismiss the great food courts found in the basements of pretty much every mall in the city. These aren’t food courts like you would find back home. The quality and variety of food is fantastic – from Chinese to Thai to Indian to Malaysian to Japanese – you won’t find a McDonalds or Pizzahut in sight.
My top tip for eating out in Singapore would be to remember to bring a pack of tissues or wipes – you won’t be given any in the Hawker Centres or Food Courts, plus they double up as a mechanism to secure your table! And don’t be frightened to sample the Hawker Centre food. It can be a little daunting at first but simply keep your eyes peeled for the largest queue and join it; the locals know a good thing when they taste it.
And finally…
Don’t believe everything you read. Singapore has a lot to offer, whether searching for the perfect Instagram shot, foodie heaven, shopping or a dose of culture. Environmental credentials feature highly in this city, with parks and tree-lined (relatively car free) streets a-plenty, not to mention the gardens protruding from the skyscrapers. High life living never looks so attractive.
Travel for travel's sake 