Glasgow’s Miles Better (It really is!)

The 80s slogan which once adorned the side of a building at the side of the Kingston Bridge still holds true.  Glasgow really is miles better.

Little did I know as a kid growing up in Scotland’s biggest city in 1983 that ‘Glasgow’s Miles Better’ would become universally applauded as being one of the most successful city branding campaigns, nor fully understand the rationale for it in the first place – to correct the out-dated view that many people in the UK and beyond have of this city that you’ll get mugged or stabbed the minute you set foot in the place.  Get a grip! It is no different from any other city in the world.

These days ‘People Make Glasgow’ is the city’s slogan.  It also holds true. Glasgow make a huge play on the friendliness of its residents. Don’t be surprised if the person serving you in a shop/cafe strikes up a conversation with you about how nice your scarf is, which leads on to your plans for the night and a recommendation of the latest bar to check out. Us Glaswegians are inherently curious, borderline nosey (in a nice way) and chatty. It almost feels like you in California but without the sunshine and sunny optimism!

So, here’s the low-down on what to see/do, eat and drink, and where to have fun in my home town. FYI – the bulk of my recommendations are either going to fall into one of three neighbourhoods – the city centre, Finnieston or West End.  As a true West Ender, I’m afraid West is best; that said, there are a few stray recommendations that will take you across the River Clyde.

City Centre and Merchant City 

Glasgow is well-known as being a shopaholics paradise. What I love about Glasgow is the variety of styles adorned by its residents. The Style Mile (aka the area in and around Buchanan Street, Princes Square, Merchant City, St Enoch’s) is where you’ll find an abundance of independent, high-street and higher end shops catering to all tastes. For parents with small kids, worth bearing in mind that Princes Square has a large area for kids to run riot whilst you grab a break from the shopping.

Whilst in the city centre, you should also check out George Square which sits at the heart of the city and despite now being paved in some kind of horrible red tarmac, features a number of statues of prominent Scottish figures like Sir Walter Scott. It is also where you’ll find Glasgow City Council’s magnificent City Chambers, which offers free tours. Walk up the largest marble staircase in Europe and you’ll see why Glasgow was once the Second City of the Empire.

Art fans should nip into the Gallery of Modern Art which is a few minutes from George Square. It is probably most famous for the Duke of Wellington Statue outside which always has a traffic cone on its head. Likewise, the Lighthouse on Mitchell Street Lane (off Buchanan Street) is also worth a look if you are into design and architecture, and want to view the rooftops of the city.

The Merchant City is an extension of the City Centre, and is where you’ll find:

• The City Halls where the BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra are based and often play free or cheap concerts.
• Trongate 103, an arts and creative space which hosts exhibitions, events and also has a shop.
• Glasgow Cathedral, also called St Mungo’s Cathedral, which is said to mark the birthplace of Glasgow.
• The famous Barrowlands. If you get to see a gig here, don’t hesitate, just go! There’s nothing quite like the feel of the floor vibrating underneath you.

Heading west from the city centre, don’t forget Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s masterpiece Glasgow School of Art which was sadly damaged in a bad fire a few years back, but which is being lovingly restored. If you are in town round about the time of the Degree Shows (usually June), check them out – you might see a future Turner Prize winner. For independent films, by-pass the big screen multiplexes for The Glasgow Film Theatre or GFT for short.

Another wee tip for wandering the streets of central Glasgow, especially near to Trongate, is to look up. Glasgow has some wonderful architecture and its often at its best above street level.  Look out for the emblems that make up Glasgow’s coat of arms.

If looking for somewhere to eat or drink in the City Centre/Merchant City, I’d personally stay away from the joints in Princes Street and the Merchant Square, and most of Sauchiehall Street’s main drag.  Instead, check out:

• Cafe, Bar or Fish Gandolfi are all fab!  The cafe features beautifully carved wooden tables and chairs, the small but airy bar in the attic is one of Glasgow’s best kept secrets, and I’ve never had a bad meal at their fish restaurant.
• Brutti Ma Buoni at Brunswick Hotel is a good pitstop for a light bite or drink.
• Stereo, found in a slightly dingy lane near to Central Station, does good veggie fare and drink, plus the odd gig. Also worth looking to see if the Old Hairdressers opposite has a gig or event on.
• Riverhill Cafe on Gordon Street for excellent coffee plus take-away soups, sandwiches and cakes.
• Despite being owned by a man who has, in my view, ruined some of Glasgow’s best bars, the Republic Bier Halle is worth a visit if you are a beer fan. They used to serve excellent pizzas too.
• Paesano Pizza is getting great write-ups and is as cheap as chips. There’s also an outpost in the west end.
• Bread Meats Bread on St Vincent Street for ace burgers and far too yummy sweet potato fries.
• Cup Tea Lounge housed in an old bank with beautiful tiles and a domed roof, is great for a bespoke G&T or afternoon tea.
• Blythswood Square Hotel and Bar for cocktails or a celebratory glass of fizz
• Fancy a Meathammer or Man from Iran, check out the original Where the Monkey Sleeps off Blythswood Square to sample some of their unusual sandwiches.
• The Griffin, on Bath Street (the Charing Cross end), used to do one of the best Mac’n’Cheese in town, as well as being a nice boozer.
• The scruffy, art-school bar The Variety on Sauchiehall Street is up there for me as one of the best boozers in town. Great atmosphere and tunes, especially on a Friday night.
• The Saramago Cafe Bar in CCA on Sauchiehall Street is not only a beautiful space but the (vegan) food cracking.
• The Art School’s Vic Bar has had a make-over but I’ve been reliably informed the grub is good, plus it used to be an excellent night out as was the Sub Club.
• Asia Style or Ka Ka Lok for soft shell crab and other Malaysian delights. Fon’t be put off by its slightly unglamorous location on St George’s Road beneath a slip road of the M8. Hats off to my dad for these discoveries.
• Non Viet on Sauchiehall Street for very reasonably priced Vietnamese food; another of my Dad’s discoveries!

West End

My old stomping ground was Glasgow’s West End. I grew up here, lived here as a student and bought my first home here.  It is home to the beautifully maintained Botanic Gardens and Kibble Palace; Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum; Glasgow University (don’t miss the Chapel, Cloisters or Hunterian) Kelvingrove Park; the Lanes (Ruthven and Ashton Lane off Byers Road); Great Western Road (from St Georges Cross which houses loads of shops selling fruit from all over the world, to Kelvinbridge stretching towards Byres Ross – the offical heart of the west end), the Riverside Museum (the new Transport Museum), and the Science Centre.

If you have kids, I’d also recommend checking out the Children’s Wood and North Kelvin Wood.

I have been meaning to visit The Glue Factory for ages but haven’t managed to yet. It is an independent arts venue, which hosts load of events and workshops including those run by Risotto, a risograph print specialist.

You are literally spoilt for choice in terms of places to eat and drink. I’ve found it really difficult to pick my favourites as there are so many:

• On Gibson Street, check out the Left Bank or Stravaigin – from their scummy breakfasts to their main fare, both are excellent.
• Don’t bother with the horrible gentrified bars on Ashton Lane bar that is the Ubiquitous Chip, where you’ll find an eclectic mix of professors, media people, students and locals.
• Other great boozers worth exploring are the Belle and the Doublet (my dad’s local)
• Naked Soup, off Byres Road, for its fantastically good value soup/sarnie/fruit meal deal.
• Usha’s – our usual spot for take-away Indian food when visiting my dad or sister.
• Tantrum Donuts – just delish!
• Cottonrake for coffee and cake. Seating in short supply and expect queues.
• Tchai-Ovna, which has been threatened with demolition for as long as I can remember. With its eclectic mismatched furniture and slightly hippy feel, it does do a mean cuppa. Their Yogi Yogi Chai is a thing of beauty.

Finnieston is where its at for eating and drinking in Glasgow these days.  It could easily be mistaken for parts of Lower Manhattan or Brooklyn.  HIghlights include:

• Ox and Finch for tapas style bistro food
• Kelvingrove Cafe
• Mother India – I prefer the original restaurant but Cafe good too.
• The Gannet where booking is essential
• The Finnieston

If you can, pay a visit to Loch Lomond which is a 30 mins drive from the West End. By-pass Loch Lomond Shores and head to either Balmaha or Luss.  Or if you have kids, Blair Drummond Safari Park, near Stirling, is far more fun and better value that Edinburgh’s Zoo.

I feel like there’s still loads to share but I’ll leave you to make your own discoveries. Enjoy!