Taking advantage of a friend being home from Australia visiting her parents prompted the last minute booking of flights to Portugal. So here I am spending 36 hours in Lisbon before heading to the Algarve for about the same duration. There’s something about jetting off from the UK as it takes to the polls (in this case the snap general election called by Teresa May whose party has so far led us up the creek without a paddle).
My early morning flight to Lisbon contained a hen party who happened to be sat in front of me and gradually got louder and more amusing as the journey progressed, ending in the declaration – “that landing was smoother than my bikini wax” by one hen.
Anyway, arrival from Lisbon airport is pretty easy. Jump on board the main transfer bus which was 4€ to Cais Do Sodre which was a stones throw from my lovely wee hotel Hall Chiado. For approx €80 for the night for a double ensuite room with windows opening into the street below, it was a great place to base myself. Lovely set up, pretty much self check in and out, whereby you are given your access code to hotel/room and they leave you to it.
Fabrika coffee roasters near my hotel on Rua Portas de Santos Antao was a lovely place full of local hipsters, and serving excellent coffee. Alternatively drop by any of the wee local coffee stops on side streets and you’ll find locals lined up at the bar drinking their coffees and having their morning fix of freshly baked Pasteis de Nata (or custard tarts), best served with a dusting of cinnamon. In a place like that expect to pay around 2.5€ for coffee and morning sugar fix. Delicious!
Many of the main sights are easily walkable e.g. I did an early morning walk from the hotel to castle which took about 25mins. Be prepared to queue if going to the likes of Santa Justa Elevators – cool to look at but there are plenty of other free vantage points affording great views of the city, like Miradouro Sao Pedro Alcantara in Bario Alto and Miradouro de Santa Luzia, beneath the castle.
Many guide books will probably mention the Time Out market. Very upmarket, expensive and full of tourists. Don’t get me wrong our plate of cheese and meat plus figs was delicious but it felt like I could have been anywhere in the world. The far more interesting local produce market (side by side with Time Out) to pick up some fresh fruit, cheese and meats was far more interesting.
My pal and I were lucky enough to get access to a new bourbon promo night at O Purista bar which is a barber shop and bar. Bit of an odd combo (barbers wielding cut throats razors whilst patrons sipping on bourbon cocktails) but when asked it appears it’s the latest craze in Lisbon, plus there was free booze and nibbles so couldn’t grumble.
Worth jumping on tram or train to LX Factory which is about 10 mins journey from Cais do Sodre station on the train (cost around 2€). If familiar with London’s Brick Lane, it is reminiscent of the Old Trumans Brewery and surrounding area. Slightly run down but gradually being gentrified, graffiti laden area contains lots of cool shops, bars and they host art events.
You’ll see some great street art scattered throughout Lisbon but Time Out provide a good run through the main sites.
Top tip if going to Belem is to hop on Tram No. 15 from main centro square, which for 2.90€ will take you straight there. Tickets can be bought on board. The key sights here are the Patrao dos Descobrimentos monument, Belem Tower and Jeronimos Monastry. There’s also a very popular custard tart shop in this area but expect huge queues.
Travel for travel's sake 