When we originally visited Lanzarote around five years ago, I found myself admitting slightly embarrassingly that we had a great family holiday in the Canary Islands. I hadn’t been on a package holiday since I was at university nor had my partner. We were much more likely to go on city breaks or somewhere exotic; both of which were likely to have been meticulously researched.
The fact is your holiday needs change when you have kids. Since writing this post originally, we now have two daughters (our six year old and her baby sister), and have visited Lanzarote four times – unheard of for us! Life is a lot of fun as a family of four but it is also tiring. We have come to realise that a healthy dose of sun, sea, San Miguel, sangria, and preferably a kids club make a huge difference.
Sadly we still haven’t had the opportunity to explore much of what is generally considered the least developed of the Canary Islands. It was part of our plan on our most recent trip in February 2020 but sadly we had to postpone this due to my partner having a leg injury. That said, we haven’t grown tired of Costa Teguise (a purpose built resort around 15 minutes taxi drive from Arrecife Airport) and the fabulous H10 Suites Lanzarote Gardens. (at a cost of 10€ if you book in advance via sites like Lastminute-Travel).
As far as the hotel goes – it’s great. I would say that when around 70-80% of the staff we met in 2017 are still working there in 2020 this is a good sign. The staff are super friendly and great with kids, even the shy ones.
Accommodation wise, we have tended to book the bungalows as they offer a bit more space. They have a separate bedroom plus fold down beds in the sitting area (which means there’s a chance of getting some sleep without a child snoring in a bed next to you); a kitchenette plus two terraces – meaning there’s an opportunity to enjoy the warmer evenings once the kids are in bed.
The resort itself has three pools to choose from with water slides; a fab baby (from six months old) and kids club manned by staff who work their socks off, plus a Daisy Disco every night. Lots of activities to take part in during the day for the adults too but no pressure to do so, which was a welcome relief.
In Costa Teguise itself, yes there are signs a-plenty for a ‘full English’ but you can also find great little, family run restaurants like El Guachinche de Luis on Agenda Islas Canaries serving a two course lunch for 10€ alongside great tapas plus a beer for a euro or two. Similarly, somewhere like La Peskera overlooking the beach for a Lanzarote Salad or something a bit more substantial, or Number 1 to fuel up before building sandcastles on the beach. The latter serving amazing milkshakes. But I have to admit there’s now competition in the form of Cafe Bon Bon, which does delicious Frappes, waffles and snacks. If pizza is your thing, be sure to check out Mi Piace. Our of our latest finds which ironically is located about two minutes walk from the hotel is Taberna El Bocadito. Oh my goodness! Not a place for vegans, this place is all about the meat which is lightly grilled and served rare, for you to finish cooking to your taste at your table. So, so good.
The promenade along the beach is looking a little tired but during our last visit work had begun to improve the pavements, including dedicated lanes for wheelchair users to gain access to the beaches, runners and bikes. The main beach – Playa de las Cucharas – is pretty good for building sandcastles with lovely golden sand, and is fairly sheltered considering Costa Teguise is known for being quite windy. There are also pedalos for hire or you can try your hand at wind surfing.
We had planned to hire a car on our most recent visit but sadly this didn’t work out. For those wishing to, fear not, car hire options are plentiful and pretty economical too. We were hoping to visit the Timanfaya National Park and Cesar Manrique Foundation but instead opted for a day trip to Arrecife on the bus, which worked out at around 12€ return for a family of four. Be warned, the bus was a bit of a nightmare with the buggy. The bus drivers insisted that the buggy be folded, thoroughfares were very narrow and despite having an accessible door in the middle of each bus with a space for buggies or wheelchairs, these weren’t to be used for either. It took around 30 minutes from Costa Teguise to Arrecife.
We did have a nervous chuckle on the bus as we passed what the tourist office labelled as two of Arrecife’s main sights – the cruise ship port and a shipwreck. Thankfully there was enough in the city to keep us entertained for a few hours. We walked from the bus station along Avenue Fred Olsen (as in the cruise ships) to the lagoon (Avenue Cesar Manrique). It takes in the lovely Playa Reducto, Jose Ramirez Cerda Park, the Castle (be sure to cross the drawbridge), and the San Gines Cathedral. The latter is a good spot in which to find yourself near lunchtime with loads of tapas bars filled with locals on Calle Ginés de Castro y Álvarez. We ate in Strava Bar but El Principe, Grapagu, and La Tentacion all looked good. Alternatively the cafes, bars and restaurants around the lagoon also looked nice.
Aware that it is not unusual to over-indulge on holiday, Graham and I also managed to get out for a few runs. No idea how people run in 27 degrees heat, but getting out early doors meant it was slightly more bearable. And plenty of 5-10k routes to choose from, which took you along the coast or amidst the holiday homes where you could contemplate what life might be like for the ex-pats. The beach at Playa Bastian is a lovely spot in which to watch the sun rise.
Aside from a few runs, these holidays in what was once unaffectionately known as Lanza-grote, have been both relaxing and refreshing. Perhaps school holidays in the sun aren’t going to be quite so painful after all.
Travel for travel's sake 