Sub zero in Krakow

People often ask how we manage to travel so much. I interpret this in terms of how we manage with a toddler in tow (answer – very good in-laws!) or financially. The answer to the latter tends to be travelling in low season or getting in there when the cheap flights are released.

In this instance, we rather stupidly decided to head to Eastern Europe in the depths of winter I.e. low season and super cheap (think £70 for a one-bed flat for 2 nights, 5 minutes walk from the old town square).

I thought Krakow had quite a student-y vibe which is exactly the type of city I go for.  It’s also pretty compact so the city is easily explored in a day or two.  The main sights are concentrated in the Old Town as you would suspect, namely:

• Main Market (or Old Town) Square called Rynek, featuring the impressive Renaissance Cloth Hall, St Mary’s Basilica (the interior decoration is spectacular), the Church of St Anne’s, the Town Hall Clock Tower at the South West Corner, and the Barbican. Every hour on the hour, the Krakow Trumpeter plays a tune from the top of St Mary’s Basilica. We were too cold to hang around!
• Wawel Castle which was a bit of a surprise and also has lovely views over the River Vistula.

Rynek Square

Wawel Castle

I would also recommend exploring the Jewish Quarter of Kazimierz which was full of interesting wee cafes, bars, restaurants and squares (including Plac Nowy) to sit and people watch (had it been warmer!).  A lot of the cafes/restaurants and bars are almost invisible during the day but after dark they spring to life.

We didn’t have much time to explore but the places we did manage to eat or drink in and would recommend are:

• Bania Luka is a student type bar but nice and cheap.
• Pijalnia Wodki I Piwa is a small chain of Communist style retro bars selling vodka, beers, wine, food for around a 4 or 8 Zlotys.  There are two branches in the Old Town and one in Plac Novy in the Jewish area. Try their home mixed lemon vodka called Cytrynowka.
• Eszeweria in the Jewish Quarter, with its dark yet cosy rooms and often with live music.
• Milkbar Tomasza to sample Krakow’s traditional dumplings.
• Warsztat for huge portions of Italian fare in the Jewish Quarter.

Traditional Dumplings

Home mixed Lemon Vodka

Communist bar

Poland meant country number 50 for me but more importantly it was a lesson in why we must not forget the horrors of the past. Why? It’s difficult to go to Krakow and not consider paying your respects at the very sobering Auswitch and Birkenau Concentration Camps. You can also visit the Wieliczka Salt Mines.

I can’t put into words the horror of hearing and seeing where these atrocities took place. Nor can I fully explain why you really should go.  We need the memories of these events at the front of our minds, as similar things are still happening today.

Needless-to-say, our trip to Auschwitz and Birkenau, left us emotionally and physically drained.