“It’s just like the moon” is a phrase often uttered when talking about Iceland, including one passenger on our plane. Now, no offence to the woman but she didn’t strike me as being one of Nasa’s finest, especially when that statement was followed by “look they have roads”.
The chances are if you have watched any kind of space-related film of late, there’s a very big chance it was filmed in Iceland (country NOT frozen food shop). And when the lunar-esque landscape comes into view on approach to Reykjavik airport, you can see why (even with the roads!).
Now I don’t like to sound like some kind of crazed woman who likes a drink, but I would recommend paying Duty Free a visit in your own country before setting off. The guidebooks don’t lie, alcohol is pricey as are most things but you knew that when you booked, so just enjoy yourself.
So, once you land on the moon what should you do. I’d personally recommend hiring a car, especially if you are planning to do the Golden Circle loop (Gulfoss, Thingvellir, Geyser and Blue Lagoon). Its way more economical and also gives you the flexibility to spend as long as you like or even venture off the main loop (depending on whether you have a car suitable for off-road driving). I’m pretty sure our car worked out at around £70 for 4 days hire, which is what you’d pay per person for the tour.
And I’m not going to lie, the Golden Circle loop is a must-do. If staying in Reykjavik, start off by visiting Pingvellir (home of the first Icelandic Parliament and where earth’s tectonic plates meet above the earth’s surface). Then move on to the Strokkur Geyser – smelly yet atmospheric, before visiting the Gulfoss waterfall which is pretty epic.
You can add the Blue Lagoon on or given its proximity to the airport, drop by before getting your plane. I’d give yourself about 3 hours at Blue Lagoon to fully emerse yourself in the mineral rich hot springs. You need to buy tickets online beforehand. Top tip – don’t be scared to try the (free) face masks they give out at the swim up bars. You’ll feel 10 years younger!
We also arrange a snowmobile tour to coincide with our Golden Circle Tour. We used a company who we met at Gullfoss for a one-hour snowmobile tour on Langjökull glacier. It was expensive but pretty cool.
In terms of accommodation, I know many people just airbnb it but as it was our wedding anniversary, we treated ourselves to a few nights stay in Fosshotel which was excellent. Nice, stylish rooms with views of Reykjavik harbour, featuring a nice bar (plus a couple of complimentary drinks) and awesome breakfast. If you are staying in an airbnb rental, friends and online forums advise against shopping in the supermarket on the main pedestrian street (Austurstaeti) which is well known as one of the most expensive shops in Iceland.
Dont overlook spending some time in Reykjavik itself. It’s a pretty happening wee city. In terms of must see sights, check out Hallgrimskirkja (the modern cathedral) which is at the top of a street called Skólavörðustígur which houses one of the most beautiful coffee shops I’ve seen in my life (see below). You should also pay a visit to Harpa, the modern, coloured glass fronted concert hall which hosts concerts and exhibitions. Finally, a sculpture called Solfar (the Sun Voyager) which is about 5/10 minutes walk from Harpa.
In terms of where to eat and drink, it’s worth bearing in mind that some of the nicer restaurants do good value set menus at lunchtime. We weren’t organised enough but will do this next time round.
For lunch or a post drink snack (aka substitute for chips), you really should give the hot dog van near to the harbour a visit. My husband poo-poo’d this suggestion at first, but had to get back in the queue to get a second helping. This tiny truck is called Bæjarins Beztu and touts Bill Clinton as one of its fans. It’s cheap and tasty.
We went to Icelandic Fish and Chips for not your regular fish supper – pick from Ling, Wolf Fish, Red Fish or whatever the locals have caught that morning. It was really informal and very tasty. We also had a lovely meal at a place called Forrettabarinn serving Icelandic style tapas plates. We didn’t manage to visit but Saegreifinn by the old harbour apparently does an amazing and famous lobster soup (and other delicious seafood). It’s like an old fisherman shack. Lots of cute places and good seafood around here in general.
If you are looking for a watering hole, Kex Hostel, was my absolute favourite. Very hip (think original shoreditch hipster joints) bar/hostel/venue/restaurant housed in an old biscuit factory. Kaffibarrin, where the film Reykjavik 101 was filmed and allegedly part owned by Damon Albarn, is also meant to be very good especially if you are a Twin Peaks fan.
If in need of some good caffeine, don’t worry there are plenty of decent places to try. My personal favourite and perhaps one of my all-time favourite hangouts was Mokka Kaffi (the café on the front of John Grant’s album) with its wooden panelled interior, and Formica tables. Effortlessly cool and without a superficial hipster barista in sight. Reykjavik Roasters and Laundromat cafe are also worth checking out.
Travel for travel's sake 